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Author Topic: Rod knocking RSX type S  (Read 7403 times)
MikeDe
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« on: February 11, 2015, 06:17:51 PM »

All,
     Can't wait to see you all out there again this year!  And yes I have yet another different car.....it is a 2002 Acura RSX Type S.

1) In stock form what class will I be, looking at the rules I am guessing GS (for the Type S).  
2) If I add a cold air intake what class will I be?  The way I read it I would be STF.  Here is my point of confusion.  The RSX in the STF category is NOT described as "RSX (Type S)" or "RSX (Non Type S)" or "RSX (all) like the others are GS/HS/DSP respectively.  Under the STF it just says "RSX" with no additional detail.  I have read other club's responses (they say STF too) I just wanted to get the final word from my club. I am probably missing something in my 340 pages of reading..so any help would be greatly appreciated as always!

Best,
Mike Dover
« Last Edit: February 23, 2015, 06:21:56 PM by MikeDe » Logged

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GeneCooley
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« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2015, 09:26:01 PM »

Mike, as you noted, the Type S is in G/Street.  Apparently it is in STF (with no breakout of "S"/non "S" models).  I don't see where the Type S is excluded, but as you say it's a little confusing.  Let me do some additional research and get back to you.
Gene Cooley
PS:  Check the allowable mods in STF before you decide to run there with just a CAI.
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jamescarriv
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2015, 07:18:10 AM »

To answer your questions,
1) in stock form GS, but you can also run in STF (and should because it is a better class for the RSX-s)
2) Yes a CAI is okay for STF.
 
The RSX type s can be considered one of the cars to have for STF.

Wheels and tires will have the most bang for your buck. 15x7.5 wheels with 225mm width extreme summer tires are the go to for STF class.
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GeneCooley
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« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2015, 07:49:29 AM »

Thanks, James!
Gene Cooley
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MikeDe
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2015, 05:39:19 PM »

Thanks James and Gene!  Ohh yeah extreme summer tires were a given (I was gonna stick with stock size so I could run GS if I wanted).  The CAI was for more of a sound thing, never seen real gains from one of those anyway.  That being said, I almost purchased the DZII's last night but wasn't sure to get the closeout ones or the updated ones.  I am really glad I didn't pull the trigger last night given the events of this morning.  I guess this is all irrelevant now as I believe I developed a rod bearing knock, at 8 am this morning on my way into Richmond, first a slight knock into a loud knock pretty quickly, variable with RPM not dependent on wheel rotation.  It was pretty loud as I got back to Doswell.  Had a good friend come over tonight and he agreed most likely a Rod/Crank bearing. Anyone have any suggestions for a shop that would rebuild an Acura engine?  I checked a few places today 4Kto 6K for a used 90,000 mile plus engine install.  I would attempt it myself....which I may just do.....but really looking for all and any suggestions.

Best,
Mike D
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catapultkid
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2015, 06:04:11 PM »

Sorry to hear Mike. I believe the RSX type S is one of the biggest underdogs that everyone over looks for some reason and in STF I believe it would be a real threat. My suggestion is to pick up a used k20 and swap it. Shouldn't be too hard for you as you work on cars or really expensive if you leave it stock. Just a little time consuming.
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-Paul
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« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2015, 06:44:43 PM »

Sorry about the rod bearing. Hope it turns out to be something that doesn't require a rebuild.

If you want to be more competitive, I would skip the CAI and run in GS. You aren't going to be competitive in STF until you do the suspension. If you are just running for fun, then go for the sound!

RSX Type Ss are really nice cars. My younger son had one for a short time.

David
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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2015, 08:11:58 AM »

 I have determined whether a rod bearing was shot by pulling the plug wire from each cylinder and then starting the engine. If it's a rod, you won't hear the knock as loud. You can also remove and cut open the oil filter and look for brass. If you intend to have the engine rebuilt, I've had good luck with Ballos Machine.
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MikeDe
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« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2015, 06:15:18 PM »

Thanks guys, Bill I pulled the oil filter and emptied it out on a white piece of cardboard.  Basically it looked like metallic root beer brown paint.  It didn't see actual metal filings like I had imagined....but I haven't gotten to the filter media yet.  However I think I have seen enough, it was almost iridescent it was so metallic.  So I think I have my answer.  Now I need to decide what to do....sell or invest.... And to think I sold my other 2 toys...and bought this car in August specifically for a dual duty daily driver and autocross, so I could run all season with you guys...foiled again...
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2015, 09:22:32 PM »

Bummer. That's what they'll look like. You could look on car-part.com, (a nation-wide auto wrecking yard search) and see what available. I just did a quick search on that site. Not knowing your VIN etc, it looks like that engine is anywhere from $1200.00-$3800.00.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2015, 09:27:11 PM by pipefitter » Logged

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MikeDe
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« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2015, 07:34:57 PM »

Yall have been so helpful thus far...I figured I would ask another question.  If I go look at an engine that has been removed from a car what steps can I take to mitigate buying another problem? Obviously take the oil filter off and pour oil on a white piece of cardboard (thanks again Bill).  Any other suggestions for checking a removed motor for obvious problems? I am either going to sell it or drop a new engine in it (or should I say try to), whichever is more economical. Thanks again
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« Reply #11 on: February 16, 2015, 12:36:57 PM »

Most reputable wrecking yards will give a warranty of some sort.... 30 days, 6 months, and I have seen some with a 12 month warranty. Bear in mind, they probably shouldn't know you autocross the vehicle. If at all possible, try to hear the engine run. If the engine is still in the car, but won't start for whatever reason, spin it over with the starter, and do a compression test making sure all 4 cylinders are within 10% of each other. If you're buying off the Trading Post, Craig's List, etc, the oil filter test is a good idea, as well as turning the engine over with a wrench. (do yourself a favor and remove the spark plugs first). See if the engine spins smoothly, but not too easily. There should be some amount of drag, and you'll feel it as you spin the wrench. With the plugs out the drag should be pretty constant because you're not building any compression...in other words, no real tight spots). Look the spark plugs over for oil. If they're nasty, it has issues, and you don't want it.
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MikeDe
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« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2015, 06:33:42 PM »

Just an update on the car.  It seems like everyone "knows a guy" who can swap the engine.  But any reputable shop is quoting me 20 hours of labor...so that's nearly 2k without the rebuild or used engine. The going price for a used K20a2 seems to be 2.5k  So I am looking at spending 4.5k minimum on a car that's worth 7k.  This also makes me feel that I am underestimating the level of complexity here.  Some mechanics say that a rebuild is better...others that a replacement engine is the best way to go.  I am at a loss for what to do here.  I posted it on Craigslist  for sale for $ 4,700 and either way I am gonna lose 4.5k....what would you do???
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« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2015, 07:24:19 PM »

Im surprised just a motor is 2k+. I know Ive seen them for sale for 50% of that on craigslist. Either way you can pull the motor and take a look at the bearings. Im going to say if you did rebuild it, while "better", it is going to be more expensive in the long run. Im a fan of pulling the motor out and sticking the "new" one back in all in a week or so.

My vote is keep looking on craigslist, I just did and found a bunch around 1k in the richmond area. If you were going rebuilt route Id make a k24 build (one for sale for 300 on clist now) with your head and a k24 tsx block, then enjoy 260whp reliably. I bet you could do that well inside the 4.5k people are qouting you.

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-Paul
1990 k20 swapped Gti (3rd motor)
1985 merkur xr4ti (4th motor)
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« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2015, 09:13:26 PM »

 There is a no longer active, but long time member of VMSC who has a Honda only repair shop. He autocrossed and road raced Hondas with SCCA for a long time. I think he still races. I'll give him a shout and see if he has any ideas or engine sources. I know a guy who'll install the engine. I'll speak with them, see what they say and PM their contact numbers to you.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2015, 09:16:36 PM by pipefitter » Logged

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« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2015, 08:50:05 AM »

PM sent. Hope it helps.
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MikeDe
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« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2015, 05:57:43 AM »

Bill,
     Thanks for the info.  I certianly appreciate your guidance and advice.  Nowto find an engine I am comfortable with!
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MikeDe
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« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2015, 05:46:51 PM »

All,
     Thanks so much for all of the advice.....You all are great! During my quest for a used engine I found someone who made me an offer on the Type S that I couldn't refuse.  While losing money I didn't lose as much as it would have cost to purchase a used motor only...not including the install.  So the search continues....and this chapter is closed....Thanks again!

Mike
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« Reply #18 on: March 02, 2015, 06:29:18 PM »


So what will your car number be at the next autocross?    Wink
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