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Author Topic: Factory Five Cobra Build  (Read 47347 times)
jloehlein
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« Reply #50 on: August 10, 2015, 03:45:30 AM »

Well, I made some more progress in the last couple weeks.  Paul and I had been talking about wanting to be able to roll cars around our garages, so we built a couple sets of wheel dollies.  I can move the car around the garage alone without having to make a lot of turns, which is nice.






Looking at the factory position of the rear brake calipers, I didn't like the options I had for running the brake lines, so I decided to swap the calipers to the front side of the axle, which required pulling the rear end apart for like the third time.



I had to grind a notch into the opposite end of the mounting flange on the axle to accommodate the ABS sensors.



I mounted the passenger caliper on the driver side and vice-versa so the bleeders are in the correct position.




Lastly, I spent yesterday starting to run the hard brake lines.  The lines from the master cylinders the to ABS pump are at least parallel to each other, though I need to figure out how to brace them.






I need to run a hard brake line to the rear of the car, install the soft lines and mount the fluid reservoir.  Once that's in place, the brakes should work, though I'll need to wire up the ABS.
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« Reply #51 on: August 16, 2015, 04:28:35 PM »

Well, it was a productive weekend, though most of the progress was on the garage rather than the car.  Since I moved all my tools down, many have been taking up space on my workbenches while I figured out where to put them.  Since nothing had a real "home", I kept putting stuff down wherever I last used it, which meant I kept losing things and spending 5 minutes just finding them again.

I decided that I wanted most of my hand tools up on the wall where I could see them clearly, so I ordered a bunch of Ernst socket rails and wrench organizers that I could hang.  In addition to those, I made some wooden holders for my ratchets and extensions.

I laid out a pattern in a piece of scrap wood and drilled a bunch of holes



Holds my extensions well



I drilled some more holes in a piece of scrap to hold my ratchets



Mounted them on the wall with metric sockets on the left, SAE on the right



And then mounted the rest of my tools.  Having all of this wall space is nice.



I also made a shelf to hold my screwdrivers and managed to re-use a piece of scrap 3/8" fuel line to make a rack for my pliers




On the car, I got the braided stainless lines in, so I made some brackets out of 2" aluminum bar so I could mount them to the chassis.  Paul came over and gave me a hand running the hard brake line to the rear.  It's all bent into shape now, but I need to mount it to the frame and flare the ends still.  It was so much easier working with two people - the line is 12' long and has to be maneuvered around all the various frame tubes to get into place.  I'll have to take some pictures when I do some more work next weekend.  The only one I have right now is one of the rear braided line and mount.

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« Reply #52 on: August 16, 2015, 05:00:43 PM »

Cool, Looks like a candy store to me, Yummm.

Cheers
Engelbert
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« Reply #53 on: August 17, 2015, 07:34:10 AM »

Nicely done. That time spent will save lots of time down the road.

Here is what you really need.

https://www.facebook.com/COP4x4/photos/a.10151536338887198.1073741840.181467227197/10153071121477198/?type=1&theater

David
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« Reply #54 on: August 17, 2015, 02:28:07 PM »

Bernard and I could build an entire car out of just one drawer of that thing.
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« Reply #55 on: September 07, 2015, 03:38:25 PM »

Well, I made some progress on the Cobra this weekend.  Got a bunch of small stuff done to finish up the brake lines and mounted the radiator.  The radiator sits at a 51 degree angle and the Factory Five-recommended radiator mounting method is to just bolt the top of the radiator to a 3/4" square tube and leave the bottom unsupported.  That's pretty sketchy, so we bought a kit someone sells to support the bottom.  Now to take it all apart and paint it, then figure out how to route the hoses.  Paul and Jeff were over, so I've got some ideas.



We also made progress on Jeff's F500 car this weekend, though as we were rebuilding one of the carbs we found that the pilot jet was clogged AND stuck so we couldn't get it out.  Even after heating the thing with MAPP gas and soaking it in Kroil, it was stuck.  We ended up breaking the tip of a screwdriver off in it trying to get it out.  Time for new carbs.

We also used some time to move some cars out of the yard and back to the garage.  Now we've just got two left in the backyard.  One Miata missing a front-end and the donor Mustang missing the rear end.  Will have to figure out a good way to move them.



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« Reply #56 on: September 10, 2015, 06:15:01 PM »

Is that blind car the dead 911 Cab ?
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2006 Cayenne S Work Horse
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« Reply #57 on: September 11, 2015, 02:59:16 AM »

Yup - still not sure what to do with it.  I'll likely just part it out after selling the Boxster.
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« Reply #58 on: September 11, 2015, 05:08:37 AM »

... after selling the Boxster.

I posted a link here back in May. I was hoping that there is may some interest.

http://www.dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=34538
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« Reply #59 on: September 26, 2015, 02:51:21 PM »

Well, it's time for another update.  I've made some progress on plumbing the cooling system.  Unfortunately, I hit a deer in the Miata last weekend, so the Cobra will have to wait until I fix that car.  Here's where it's at now though.

After painting the radiator mounting brackets, I laid everything out on my workbench.  Instead of using the corrugated flexible pipe that Factory Five supplies for the radiator hoses, I got some 1.5" aluminum tube, mandrel bends, and some radiator hoses with a bunch of bends in them that I could hack up.




Jeff came over to give me a hand and we started mocking stuff up.  The upper radiator hose/tube was basically perfect just using two 45 degree bends.  I didn't even have to cut them.




The lower is more complicated, we cut a 180 degree bend in half to get a 90, then a section of straight pipe, then another 45.  Taped it together and then took it out of the car for Paul to weld.  Note that the blue masking tape leaves much less residue than the regular.  Should have used that on the lower, too.






Paul welded everything up and I bought a real coolant expansion tank rather than the one Factory Five provides with the kit, which some people claim is too small and results in air being sucked into the cooling system on a regular basis.  Now I just needed some way to bead the ends of the tubes, that's what the Vise Grips are for.




I don't have the best picture, but I copied some other folks on the internet and welded a washer onto one jaw of the Vise Grips and ground a notch in the other jaw.  Running around the soft aluminum tube, it's pretty easy to create a raised bead so the hose doesn't slip off once clamped on.








The plumbing looks good in the car.  I may have to lower the radiator cap fitting some, we'll find out when I put the body on.



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« Reply #60 on: February 14, 2016, 07:00:13 PM »

Alright, I'm back at it after getting the Miata mostly squared away.  There are a few things left that I need to take care of before I can run and drive the car:

Brakes
- install master cylinder reservoir
- bleed brake system

Cooling System
- install overflow tank
- install lower radiator tube, ensure fit
- install heater hoses and heater valve
- fill, bleed system

Fuel System
- remake fuel rail crossover hose (engine builder did poorly)
- add missing brace to fuel rail (engine builder only installed 3 of 4)

Misc
- re-make PS return line
- oil, transmission fluids
- clutch line
- throttle cable
- install headers, exhaust

Wiring
- all of it Sad

I started knocking out some of the easier stuff this weekend.  Of course the brake and coolant reservoirs Factory Five supplies are garbage.  The brake fluid reservoir may hold 4oz of fluid...and it's not vented.  People report issues sucking the reservoirs dry or creating a vacuum because they are not vented.  Great.  So, I ordered some nice reservoirs, but now I need to find a place to mount them.  It looks like the driver's side frame tube at the top of the engine bay will be the best spot, but the hard brake lines I made are in the way.  Jeff helped me start to remake them so that they snug up under the tube.

At the same time, I need to make some brackets to mount the lines and the reservoirs.  I got a 3D printer last month, so I decided to mess around and print some test brackets for the brake lines and the brake reservoir.  The brake line clamp is simple, it spaces the lines about an inch out from an existing mount and has two holes for the lines.  I printed these out of cheap HIPS plastic, which I bought in red.  I'll remake them out of black ABS or maybe some polycarbonate, if needed.








I printed the block 80% hollow, with a 1mm shell.  I wanted to see how strong it was, so I decided to try and jack up the Miata with it.



That's the back wheel off the ground.



The block survived fine, you can see where it made an impression in the wood.



Here, I cut the block open.  You can see how it's supported internally.  Seems to be plenty strong.




Jeff helped me mock up the brake reservoir bracket.  I need to make some adjustments to the size, but that's easy to do since it only takes like 5 minutes in SketchUp, then I can re-print overnight.










I'll start knocking stuff off the list and hopefully have this thing running in a couple months.
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« Reply #61 on: March 13, 2016, 03:28:56 PM »

Got a couple small items done this weekend.  I don't have pictures of everything.  I re-made the fuel line that connects the two fuel rails.  The engine builder cut it too short and also only installed it half way onto the fittings.  He also only installed 3 of the 4 fuel rail mounts, so I ordered and installed another.  Not a big deal, but disappointing.

I made a couple of tweaks to the 3d printed master cylinder reservoir bracket and re-printed it in black




I also re-bent the power steering return line and mounted the lower radiator tube Paul welded up.  I raised the cooler up to make more clearance for the radiator hose.  If you compare the shot of the lower radiator hose to the one a couple posts up, it is much better.






Jeff also helped me frame a 42"x56" poster of the LeMons car that I had made like a year ago.  I made the frame out of a 2x4 and box jointed the ends.  Now I need to figure out where to hang it.



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« Reply #62 on: March 19, 2016, 04:07:52 PM »

Well, I finally buttoned up the brake hydraulics.  I got to use the 3d printer to print out a grommet where the soft brake lines, hard brake lines, and wiring harness come through the firewall.  I printed it in two pieces to sandwich the firewall.  I also left opposite-facing slots in it where the wiring harness comes through so that I could slip it over the harness, instead of trying to pull the harness through.

Here is the hole in the firewall that I've gotta put the 4 brake lines and wiring harness through




And the grommet




I installed it around the wiring harness and then pulled the soft brake lines from the reservoirs to the master cylinders




Once that was in, I pushed the hardline through, bent up and flared the portion inside the car that connects to the master cylinders






I filled the master cylinders and pressure bled the system.  I found some leaks, but thankfully after tightening the fittings down some more, everything seems to be fine.  The stainless steel lines need a lot of torque.  I think I'm gonna try and button up the cooling system next.
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« Reply #63 on: March 19, 2016, 06:21:43 PM »

This is cool stuff.

I like the frame you made for the Woody Mobil.

So you do 3D printing. That makes me thinking.

Cheers
Engelbert
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2006 Cayenne S Work Horse
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1988 944 Turbo
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« Reply #64 on: March 20, 2016, 03:16:46 AM »

Thanks, Engelbert.  The 3D printing is pretty interesting.  I've wanted one for a few years and this seemed like a good excuse to buy one.  If you need anything done, let me know.  It's really good for small parts and brackets.
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« Reply #65 on: March 27, 2016, 11:47:56 AM »

What color is it going to be? Gotta love a Cobra!
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« Reply #66 on: March 27, 2016, 03:54:53 PM »

We're trying to find a nice shade of maroon.  Maybe something like this, with no stripes.

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« Reply #67 on: March 27, 2016, 04:14:41 PM »

Ahhh yeah sweet....the helmet...all makes sense now.  I like the maroon.  My best friend's dad has one that is maroon. 
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« Reply #68 on: April 24, 2016, 06:08:03 PM »

Well, I've been doing a bunch of piddly things over the past few weeks, so I don't have a ton of pics.  I do keep finding things that the "professional" engine builder did wrong.  Makes me worry about the rest of the motor.  Anyways, I think I've got the cooling system and power steering almost buttoned up.

I mounted the coolant overflow next to the brake reservoirs.




I was worried I might have to lower the height of the radiator cap, but after laying the hood on, we've got plenty of room.






So, with everything buttoned up, I pulled a vacuum on the cooling system to see if it had any leaks.  There was a leak somewhere - large enough that you could hear air being sucked in from somewhere around the upper radiator hose and thermostat housing.  I checked the hose clamps on the hoses and checked the heater hose fitting in the intake manifold - no leaks.  I poked around a bit and found that the thermostat housing was leaking.  Not normally a big deal, but the reason why it was leaking certainly is - it's the wrong housing!

You can see here the blue lines outline where the bypass hose is on the housing.  That tube should be ~5mm further inside of the mating surface on the intake manifold.  I'm sticking a pick in the back of it and I could get the tip of the pick inside the housing.



Here you can see there is ~82mm between the outside of the bypass hole on the manifold and the lower mounting bolt.  On the housing that was installed, there is ~88mm.  Thankfully, we had the stock housing off my dad's old 302, which fits correctly.





Anyways, we threw it back together.  There are some extremely slow leaks (loses 1psi of vacuum after about 15 seconds) that I pinpointed to the paper gaskets on the thermostat housing and water pump.  I think it's just because they're dry.  Once there is water in the system, it should be fine.  Before I do that, I think I'm going to pull the valve covers though and see if I see anything else "off" about the motor.  I'm debating whether or not to pull the whole motor apart.  On the one hand, it would probably mean an extra month before getting the car running - and if it blew up, it would be my fault.  On the other hand, I'm fairly skeptical about the quality based on the number of small issues we've seen.  I've got some time to think about it while we try to get Paul's car ready for Hyperfest.
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« Reply #69 on: June 04, 2016, 03:55:39 PM »

Well, after getting Paul's VW running for Hyperfest, I'm back to working on the Cobra.  I told myself I was going to just hack the wiring together quick and dirty to get the car running, and then clean it up over the winter, but I can't help myself.  I pulled apart the harness that came with the motor and have started to re-route it and clean it up.

There was a bunch of extra wiring because the engine harness is generic.  There was an extra 10 feet of wiring on the fuel pressure sensor!  You can see it curled up on the ground in this pic.  The engine harness is the one with the grommet and all the loom on it.




Loom pulled off and everything spread out




One thing I didn't like was that there were adapter connectors between the harness and some components - MAP sensor, IAC valve, TPS (not shown).  That makes it difficult to bundle everything up, so I cut the adapter connectors out and re-terminated the ends.






Then I started bundling things together, looming the individual connectors, and looming the bundles.  It looks real clean.










Unfortunately, I forgot to run a few wires for the gauge senders, so I'm pulling everything back apart to run them.  Also, I noticed the connector on the distributor pickup was messed up.  Here is a picture of an assembled connector.



One of the terminals on the pickup connector was pushed in.  If anyone knows where I can get one of these terminals, let me know.  It's the one on the top in the picture below.  Compared to the Weather Pack terminal on the bottom, it's almost the same size - the length of the tip to the retaining tangs is only 10mm vs the Weather Pack's 15mm though.

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« Reply #70 on: June 05, 2016, 05:18:28 PM »

Well, I'm pretty sure I found the terminals for the distributor online.  Hopefully they come in this week.  I took the day to add the wires I forgot to run for the gauges and loomed it all the way to the firewall.




They will go through the firewall where the oval hole is, but I don't want to have to pull the dash to disconnect the ECU or remove all of the connectors from the engine in order to remove it.  I've got some flanged wiring connectors that I can use.






In order to leave room for body wiring and expansion in the future, I decided to use the two rectangular connectors and put a big grommet above them.  Rather than trying to cut a large circular hole, two rectangular holes, and drill a bunch of holes for the mounting bolts, I laid out a plate that I'll 3D print and use to mount all the wiring to.  Now I just need to enlarge the existing hole in the aluminum so everything runs through it.




I also drilled a hole in the thermostat housing and ordered a tap so I can mount the water temp sender.  Hopefully I can button that up plus the engine wiring next weekend and move onto wiring the rest of the car.
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« Reply #71 on: June 12, 2016, 06:46:46 PM »

Well, I think I'm done with the engine bay wiring harness, and I have diagrammed out the rest of the harness in the car.  I need to pick a spot to mount the ECU and ignition so that I can make the rest of the harness.

I mounted the plate that I 3D printed and installed the flange-mount connectors.






I cut the extra wire from the harness and terminated them each into two connectors.  I'm going to wait to shrink the heat shrink until I know I didn't forget anything.






In addition to those, I separated out the wiring for the magnetic pickup and ran it in some shielded loom to prevent any electrical interference.  I put a separate firewall connector closer to the center of the car so it didn't need to travel along the battery cables.




Hopefully just a few more weekends and I can fire the car up.
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« Reply #72 on: June 19, 2016, 02:27:10 PM »

Well, made some good progress this weekend.  I have a few sensors left to mount, including the oxygen sensor, so Paul came over to give me a hand mounting the body and exhaust so we could mark where the sensor will go and make sure it doesn't hit anything.




With that done, I got back to wiring.  I needed to wire the ECU and ignition.  I decided to focus on the ignition first.  I was originally planning on mounting them both inside the car, but have read that the FAST ECUs are really sensitive to electrical interference - which the ignition creates a lot of.  Paul and I decided it would be better to mount the ignition box at the front of the engine compartment.  I designed a mount, 3D printed it and mounted everything up on Sunday.









I spent Sunday running the ignition wires.  This included cutting open the chassis harness so I could run the power wires back to the battery with the existing harness.  Kind of a pain, but it's coming out well.  I still need to mount the coil and supply a 12V switched source, but that's it.  Next weekend, I'm going to try to mount the ECU and finish wiring it.
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« Reply #73 on: July 09, 2016, 06:09:35 PM »

So the last few weekends were pretty productive.  Jeff helped me mount the coil next to the power steering pump.  It's on a simple bracket made out of a piece of steel plate.




I mounted the ECU and cleaned up the wiring.  All of the stuff hanging off to the right side is extra.  I'll remove it once I know it's working.




I also wired up the dash so that we could keep an eye on things.






After getting a replacement set of headers because the flange from the driver's side header to the sidepipe wasn't welded, I found that we had to grind the flange to the head a bit in order to access the spark plugs.




Once we got the headers mounted up again, we were able to fire it up (click the image for a video).

CobraStart


And here is one of the shakedown runs at the practice autocross.  Camera could have been aimed better...oh well.

So as of now, the car runs and drives.  The ECU is a FAST EZ EFI 2.0 that came with the motor.  It's self-learning, and only self-learning...which means I can't manually tune it.  Looking online, I don't think there is an aftermarket ECU that gets worse reviews.  The car runs rich and I can't manually tune it.  The self-learning is also very finicky - it doesn't self-learn below 2% throttle, and 2% throttle is quite a lot for the car.  You can hear the car breaking up towards the finish in the video.  I believe it's because of how rich it was running.  I tricked the ECU into pulling out fuel by telling it the motor was 351ci (supposedly, it's 408) and it had 65lb injectors (it has 50lb injectors).  That got rid of the hesitation, but it's still rich.  I'm going to pull the plugs out of it and make sure they look even.  Will also put a separate wideband into the other exhaust bank so that I can keep an eye on it.  I'm also going to buy an ECU I can actually tune.  FAST sells one that uses the same wiring harness, so I won't have to re-do everything.
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« Reply #74 on: August 20, 2016, 01:54:38 PM »

Alright, I got the FAST Sportsman XFI ECU in the car today.  I can tune it!  I got the ECU because it uses the same wiring harness as the EZ EFI - and I had already spent all that time making sure the wiring was neat.  I bolted it in, fired the car up and drove it around the block.  It took me ~10 minutes of driving and tuning to get it running well.  The AFR is right and there is no more hesitation.  At least through the portion of the map that I was able to hit driving around the neighborhood Smiley



Now to finish cleaning up the wiring, then on to bodywork.
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2000 Honda Insight - Daily Driver
1995 Honda Civic CX - Street Mod/HPDE beater
1994 Chevy Caprice wagon w/6 speed - tow vehicle
1991 Mazda Miata (plus parts cars) - LeMons racecar
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