Glad you posted the link; I couldn't find them by searching for "VMSC".

I'm looking for a wife that would voluntarily learn to drive a stick to surprise my Miata with....no wait, that won't work.

Hey, Scott, just kidding around.  Good luck, you're a lucky man.  I'll keep my eyes open for you.

Sale pending to Engelbert.

Thanks

Got you email (delayed because I was in meetings).

There is quite a bit of interest in these from many different places (advertised on other forums) and I'm taking paypal to allow out-of-state sale, so it is getting a little confusing for me to manage the situation.

They are still for sale and I'd prefer local sale.  

I emailed you back.

Geoff

bump

FS: 15" staggered competition tires--used Toyo Proxes RA1

15"
staggered 205/50/15 and 225/50/15  
(Ideal for 2nd gen MR2 or similar)

Toyo Proxes RA1
$170 for all four; sold only as a set.
Accepts paypal but only backed by checking account (I don't have a business account so can't accept credit card backed payment) geoff then the @rundlett.com
Will deliver locally with advance payment.

Numbers indicate tire size and estimate of tread depth remaining on a scale of 10.

Thanks for looking,
Geoff


[Edited on 11-9-2007 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 12-9-2007 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 15-9-2007 by 2000GLXStick]

This sounds like a great idea.

Rick Rundle behind Napa in Petersburg is awesome!

Fidanza claims that balancing the flywheel together with the friction disc and clutch cover will resolve this....and that its the idler gears that are making the noise.
I don't know anybody who can accurately balance such an assembly; please give me a clue if you do.

Latest troubleshooting dilemma:

Too many components "new or new to me" to isolate the problem.

I've heard this may be common to some Subarus and other vehicles too (see link below).

I'm having a problem with my Toyota MR2 that I'm hoping others might have a clue about from general car experience.

I installed a new-to-me transmission that has a factory LSD.  It came with axles, hubs, and shifter cables (all used 1993 vintage in apparent good condition).

I installed it with a new lightweight Aluminum flywheel, a new Spec stage 2 clutch (friction disc and cover), and throwout bearing.

There is a vibration that happens when I lift off the throttle (or just stop accelerating so I can maintain speed).  This only happens when RPMs are above about 2000 or 2500 and it only happens in gear while moving.  I cannot reproduce the symptom standing still.  It has supposedly happened to others with different clutches and steel flywheels, but something has to be common assuming our complaints are the same.  
I've heard some of these people say that the noise doesn't shorten the lifespan of anything and they've lived with it for multiple years in some cases.  I can't stand it.

Anybody got an idea what the root cause is?  I don't want to do exploratory surgery or take a blind parts replacement approach but I need a fix.

Here's the saga many Subaru owners went through...I never did find a fix in that thread either.

I'm mostly interested in a rear window banner (same as windsheild banner, but legal in VA).
Anyway, whoever does some of your cars (Richard, Rod, and Team Jester come to mind) could surely do it.

Who's got a recommendation to share?  I searched but came up empty.

Thanks
Geoff

I've never watched, but wish him the best.  So these contestants had to sign a contract to be someone's slave if they win?!?!?!  That totally sucks.
:ouch:

Cool...I'm better than someone at something....I'm trying my best to miss two autox seasons to a diy project and so far I have 135 crank hp less than I'm used to.  Quite impressive results; I'm the mayor of looserville.


And I've got a turbo that needs rebuilding and two motors that need bearings.  I can see shooting for three years shouldn't be too hard.

Again, congrats on the project.  I hope to finish mine someday.

[Edited on 16-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

I like your dyno tuning results; unfortunately I also cannot guarantee you a spot but assume you'll be fine.  It is a new venue though which introduces a little variability from the norm.

Make sure you bring a piece of wood to protect the blacktop from your jack (NEW RULE).

Where's the icon for jealous?

Congrats and good luck!!!

I'm sure this has been overcome by events, but I had to do the same thing Bernard described on my MR2.

I heard all good things about Jeff at Delta V Motorsports, corner of Boulevard and Leigh.


I'm doing my own Toyota motor swap in Chester; what do you need to know?

Pasha,

Registration for next Sunday, the 19th is still open, but the event isn't available on the withdrawal screen.

Please withdraw me from slot #95.

I strive to be informed but still speak without knowing what I'm talking about.  Thanks for the info, Gene.

There is an SCCA rule (I heard) that requires a minimum time between runs in a car to take away any advantage theoretically gained by heating race rubber.  The only times I've co-driven in the same heat, it was on street rubber and there is no advantage...it actually is more hectic which is distracting.
The only reason I've wanted to do it is to gain a logistics advantage.  It is harder to get someone to let you drive their car if it means they have to wait around for you.
It shouldn't be allowed for cars with race rubber because there's no reliable and effortless way to ensure a minimum time separation.  

Just my .02 cents.

bump

free bump

You're not interested in trades by any chance?

1990 Dodge Monaco ES 3.0 liter V6 w/ 4spd automatic just shy of 120,000 miles
asking $1500
TRADES CONSIDERED.  I don't need another car, but I need MR2 parts and Passat parts, paint/powdercoat services, home improvement services

Features:
Very comfy leather interior with virtually no wear, I swear.
leather steering wheel with tilt column
climate control (automatic heat)
A/C was once professionally upgraded but has lost pressure
cruise control
intermittent wipers
remote entry
4-wheel disc brakes
power locks
power windows with driver express down
6 speaker stereo w/ power antenna
rear defroster
dual side remote mirrors
dual power seats
console/arm rest with a pair of cupholders
power remote trunk release
carpeted floor mats
15" alloy wheels
jack/spare/service manual/owners manual/window sticker
time-delay headlights stay on IF you want them to
lights in engine bay and trunk as well as interior map and courtesy lights

Lots of new parts.
4 New brake rotors
all new brake pads
2 new reman rear calipers (brembos)
new brake fluid
rew left front ball joint
new rear shocks
new front struts
new front strut mounts
new water pump
rew thermostat
new hoses
new radiator
new coolant
fresh oil and filter change
new air filter
new wiper blades
recent battery
recent alternator
recent muffler


Geoff

































[Edited on 1-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 1-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 1-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 5-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

[Edited on 6-3-2006 by 2000GLXStick]

My dream would be that a huge grass-roots movement was sparked that showed the general public wants "open standards" type development, but the pessimist in me says that the general public either won't be informed enough or actually not care enough for that to happen.  More likely, it will come down to a battle between the special interest lobbyists of the auto industry versus the independent repair industry.

I can't help but wonder if (hope for) entirely new, simplistic  vehicles will come from new manufacturers.

I'll say one thing, and I think I'm not alone: computer interference (dependence) in cars has already surpassed the annoying point.

Thanks a bunch!  I'm not sure if I'll have it running this weekend, so I'll contact you when it is running and see if you can still help me out.  (the car actually runs fine, but it doesn't stop until I totally fix the brakes so I can't really take it anywhere).  

You both deserve thanks.
I'd volunteer the help, but I don't have those skills to improve those things.